We like sometimes LAT scribe Regina Schrambling‘s piece in Slate today about how food writers secretly hate Thanksgiving. Why? Because we have food on the brain today – so we must give thanks to those that have food on the brain everyday:
We whip ourselves into a lather trying to make Thanksgiving trendy, but no one really wants to mess with the hoariest menu. In a country that worships sickening candied yams under marshmallows, I know that almost no one will try something like sweet potatoes Anna-a gratin of thin slices layered with thyme, Aleppo pepper, and lots of butter. I can angst over a new recipe for shredded Brussels sprouts with fancy-pants pistachio oil and know for certain that most tables will be disgraced by green bean casserole with onions from a can.
I can’t begin to count the number of alternatives to cranberry sauce I have developed-salsa, chutney, whatever-yet most cooks will blithely follow the recipe on the Ocean Spray bag (which is actually pretty hard to beat). The more we make ourselves insane in mucking with the classics, the nuttier we make our audience. Every story purporting to take the stress out of the day actually reinforces the notion that the easiest feast of the year is the most harrowing.