Yesterday's filleting of Graydon Carter's Waverly Inn by New York Post food critic Steve Cuozzo ...

THE other night at Waverly Inn & Garden, the world's most crowded "not open yet" restaurant, the waiter didn't know if truffles with $55 macaroni-and-cheese were black or white. Is this any way to launch the alleged new "center of Gotham's café society universe"? Welcome to the most annoying new place to eat in a long time. The service is clunky, the phone number secret. And despite raking in the dough for two months, it's in "previews" — meaning it ducks the press while incubating a colony of apparently beer-averse boldfaces (it's Heineken or nothing).

... apparently caught the eye and sparked the ire of our favorite men's magazine editor Dave Zinczenko, who provided his own review yesterday while dining at Michael's:

Dave also weighed in on Steve Cuozzo's less than glowing review of Graydon Carter's new eatery, The Waverly Inn, that ran in today's New York Post. "I'm offering the complete counterpoint," says Dave. "The food is incredible, the service is wonderful."