It was five years ago that Condé Nast shuttered Gourmet magazine.
“I am devastated for so many reasons. Here was an almost 70-year-old magazine closed on my watch. It felt like a profound failure. I had 60 people who worked for me who lost their jobs and that was terrible. Magazine making is the most collaborative work you can do. I felt like I let all my colleagues down.”
“When I took over they told me, ‘Do anything you want.’ All of us at the magazine started paying attention to more serious issues… The politics of food, what was happening on farms. If you are an eater you should be paying attention to more than just a recipe and does it taste good. The New Yorker, the Smithsonian, lots of other publications are embracing that. The food magazines have reverted into nice, safe recipes. No epicurean magazine would have asked David Foster Wallace to do an article. We kept trying to push the envelope.