Me, Myself, and Foie Gras: Writing the Perfect Food Essay

Have you heard that food writing is the next big thing? It sounds easier than it is, no? I mean, food is awesome but how many synonyms are there for “delicious”? Never fear. David Leite, contributor to Bon Appètit, Saveur, The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America (Oxford University Press, 2004) and The New Cook’s Catalogue is here to give you a few pointers on how to spice (ha ha!) up your food essay.
1. Take your eye off the navel.
One of the biggest mistake writers make when penning a food essay is navel gazing. A good essay–gastronomic or otherwise–is a story about someone or something ELSE told in the first person. Then your thoughts, feelings, and experiences don’t live in limbo; they’re reactions to a person or situation.
2. Watch your nuts.
Essays aren’t an excuse to forget all the good rules of narrative writing. One of the most common mishaps is the disappearance of the nut graf. Essays need them as much as a good hard-news story. You readers needs to know where you’re going, especially with such personal pieces. Never rely on your editor to summarize your essay in a well-crafted dek.
3. Where’s the beef?
It’s amazing how many food essays don’t include description of food. Sometimes writers offer an] obligatory nod, but more often than not they simply omit the description, leaving the readers to fill in the blanks. Granted, not all essays are about meals on the scale of “Babette’s Feast,” but the food still needs to described. Make your readers hungry.
4. Pass on the saccharine.
Given that the nature of an essay is personal, it’s tempting for a writer to get syrupy–sometimes to the point of tooth-aching sweetness. If you have fond, tender memories of a beloved grandmother or great-aunt, that’s wonderful and useful. But let some of the acidity of the situation or person cut through. Even Julia Child, the patron saint of all things cooking, could be sassy at times.
Did you enjoy these tasty nuggets? Take David’s Mediabistro course on writing the perfect food essay May 25!

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