Most food writers like to be anonymous when they review so they don't receive any special treatment that would sway their opinion of the restaurant. One-armed food critic JJ Goode would like to review in a similar way, not so much because the special treatment he receives from restaurant staff would make his reviewing falsely favorable, but because the fatuous attempts staff makes to 'help' him only make them look like asses. (Leite's Culinaria)