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Archives: August 2012

Quote of Note | Haider Ackermann

Looks from Haider Ackermann’s fall 2012 collection.

“When you prick the tip of your finger, the blood is this beautiful shade of dark red. The color does not last very long—as the blood dries, it goes brownish and looks horrible, but for a fraction of a second it’s incredible. Discovering that you have cut your finger can be distressing and painful, of course—but looking at that magnificent shade of red is a beautiful distraction. I long to work with fabric in that color, and I am always looking for it, but I’ve never found it. I have seen reds in Francis Bacon and Mark Rothko paintings that are as intense as blood red, with the same violence and fear and with a kind of perversion. All those layers of red paint, one on top of the other, feel very sexual.”

-Haider Ackermann, in an interview with Alice Rawsthorn in the August issue of W

Five Things You Didn’t Know About Peter Marino

Business is booming for Peter Marino, the architect that every luxury brand worth its heavily burnished heritage story has on speed dial. His 150-employee firm completed 100 projects last year, and none of them had budgets under $5 million (only ten had budgets under $10 million). That’s just one of the revelations in Amy Larocca’s excellent profile of Marino that appears in the August 20 fall fashion issue of New York magazine. Here are five more little-known facts about the man, the myth, the leather-clad legend that caught our eye:

5. He deliberately avoids the news: “For me, it’s worse than religion.”

4. His motorcycle obsession (and penchant for wearing codpieces and chaps to the office) was triggered by an odd doctor’s appointment. “[The doctor] said, ‘If I told you right now that you had cancer and a month to live, what would you do?’ And I said, ‘I would get a bike and ride, and if it was painful I’d go off a cliff and die happy.’ And he said, ‘You better start doing that right now.’” explained Marino. “For the first 30 seconds, I was like, Where are we going with this?, and then he was like, ‘You don’t have cancer, but you’re getting to a certain age, and I want you to enjoy your life.’”

3. He’s not above a starchitect dig. “Where are the clothes?” asked Marino of the Rem Koolhaas-designed Prada flagship in New York. “And by the way, has Rem Koolhaas ever been asked to design another store?” (Note to Pedro: Yes. And Coach recently tapped Koolhaas and OMA to design its Tokyo flagship as well as an in-store shop at Macy’s in Herald Square that is slated to open next month.)
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Joel Meyerowitz, David LaChapelle Among This Year’s Lucie Award Honorees

The Lucies, presented annually to honor statuette-worthy achievements in photography, turn ten this year, and in the run-up to the glittering October 8 gala at the Beverly Hilton (tickets now on sale), the Lucie Foundation has announced the 2012 honorees:

• Lifetime Achievement: Joel Meyerowitz
• Achievement in Fine Art: Arthur Tress
• Achievement in Documentary: Tod Papageorge
• Achievement in Fashion: David LaChapelle
• Achievement in Photojournalism: David Burnett
• Achievement in Sports: John Biever
• Achievement in Portraiture: Greg Gorman
• Double Exposure Award (presented to an artist/photographer who has mastered multiple disciplines of creative expression): Jessica Lange

Winners of the 2012 International Photography Awards juried competition will be announced at the gala. And nominations are now being accepted for support award categories, including Print Advertising Campaign of the Year, Fashion Layout of the Year, and Exhibition/Curator of the Year.

In Brief: The $11 Million Ford, Student Designs ‘Food Printer,’ Perfume for Booklovers

(Photo: RM Auctions)

• This sleek little 1968 Ford GT40 now holds the title of most expensive American car ever sold at auction. It fetched $11 million in spirited bidding at an RM Auctions sale held last Friday in Monterey, California. Built for the J.W.A./Gulf team, the car raced extensively throughout 1968 from Daytona to Le Mans. “Its genesis alone is the stuff of legends and the subject of countless books, summarized most succinctly as a failed buy-out of Ferrari by Henry Ford II,” notes the RM catalogue of Ford’s GT40 program, which celebrates its fiftieth anniversary in March 2013.

• From a record-breaking Ford to…scent-captured food! An industrial design student at China’s Donghua University worked with Sony to develop a device she calls a “food printer.” Combining a camera with a smell extractor and a printer, it allows the user to photograph a food, capture its aroma, and then print out the image on a smell-infused postcard (wish you were here…to taste this!). The concept recently earned the “most-fun” award at a Sony-sponsored student design competition.

• If you’d rather smell like a freshly printed book than a foodstuff, feast your nose on Paper Passion. Created by Wallpaper* in collaboration with publisher Gerhard Steidl, fragrant bibliophile Karl Lagerfeld, and perfumer Geza Schoen, the bookish (and beautifully packaged) scent—a minimalist juice that includes ethyl linoleate and a selection of woody components to add dryness—is now available for pre-order from our friends at Aedes de Venustas in New York.

Food for Thought: Is Alice Waters Cooking Up a Restaurant in a Museum?

Alice Waters may be bringing her garden-fresh, local fare to a museum in the near future. The chef, author, and proprietor of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse recently hinted that such a project is in the works. “I’ve always wanted to do a restaurant in a museum,” Waters told Elle Decor’s Ingrid Abramovitch in an interview that appears in the magazine’s July/August issue. “There are a couple of possibilities on the horizon. For now, that’s all I can say.” No word as to whether this would be an initiative of her Edible Schoolyard Project. Meanwhile, Waters was more forthcoming about her love of design (“If I weren’t involved with food, I’d be working in architecture.”) and cited Christopher Alexander‘s A Pattern Language as a major influence. “[Alexander] wrote about how architecture can be used to convey universal values,” she said. “After a fire in Chez Panisse’s kitchen that burned down the wall between the kitchen and dining room, I decided not to put it back. For the first time, the light from the dining room flowed into the kitchen. The cooks and I could look out and see the sunset. For the diners, it demystified what was happening in the kitchen. It’s been a revelation.”

Design Jobs: Popdust, Bonnier, Amazon

This week, Popdust is hiring an art director, while Bonnier needs a photo editor. Amazon is seeking a senior tabletop photographer for, and Haute Living magazine is on the hunt for a senior graphic designer. Get the scoop on these openings and more below, and find additional just-posted gigs on Mediabistro.

Find more great design jobs on the UnBeige job board. Looking to hire? Tap into our network of talented UnBeige pros and post a risk-free job listing. For real-time openings and employment news, follow @MBJobPost.

Watch This: At Home with John Waters

John Waters followed his “Zen-like” cross-country hitchhiking adventure (research for his next book) with a busy summer. In June, the filmmaker, writer, artist, and curator took to the stage at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall to honor Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo on the occasion of her 2012 CFDA Award. “I wear Comme des Garçons the same way Andy Warhol wore $100,000 women’s necklaces underneath his Brooks Brothers turtlenecks—to be fashionable in secret,” said Waters in his remarks, which are excerpted in this month’s issue of Harper’s Bazaar. “Only you know you spent money when you wear Rei’s creations. In fact, some of the more fashion-impaired public actually feel sorry for us!”

In July, Waters knocked ‘em dead on the left coast, where he performed a one-man show at Hollywood Forever Cemetery (treat yourself to Linda Yablonsky’s take on it here) and later collected the annual Outfest achievement award. Meanwhile, Frieze caught up with him at his Baltimore home to discuss sex, death, God, and the art world. “[T]he Pope of Trash has found an escape hatch from his own instantly recognizable cultural legibility in the hermetic domain of contemporary art,” notes Frieze’s Drew Daniel. Here’s the highlight reel:

Thirsty for more Waters? Pick up a copy of Role Models (Farrar, Straus and Giroux), a self-portrait told through chapter-size portraits of everyone from Kawakubo to Johnny Mathis, or watch Paul Holdengräber‘s 2010 chat with Waters at the New York Public Library.

Quote of Note | Joan Herlihy on Zaha Hadid

“How had this woman gotten so famous, anyway? She was even curating, no, ‘guest designing,’ the content of literary magazines. (Dopey sci-fi computer renderings that would have looked more at home on Wired subscription blow-ins.) Perhaps a paucity of female architects had dictated her arc…or the mere miracle that she’d managed, with grace and alacrity, to remove herself from King Koolhaas‘s shadow—a grand Chess Master’s trick, Joan had to admit…or her dramatic looks, the Baghdad-born thing, feminist warrior-ship masthead, unclassifiable geodesic goddess in a woman-killing theocracy, the sheer improbability of it, plus unkempt Fat Actress kohl-smeared gypsy-soprano factor that made her rock-star notable. Of course none of Joan’s acid observations interfered with the awareness she wanted to be Zaha; wanted books written on her own work, international forums centered around her own ideas, phantom or realized….But she (Joan) was still relatively young. That kind of momentum took time.”

-Architect Joan Herlihy, a character in Bruce Wagner‘s Memorial. His latest novel, Dead Stars, is out this month from Blue Rider Press.

Museum Moves: New Director for Indianapolis Museum of Art, Curator Changes, Getty Launches App

Charles L. Venable (pictured) is the newly appointed director and CEO of the Indianapolis Museum of Art. He starts on October 8. For the past five years, Veneble has served as director and CEO of Louisville’s Speed Art Museum, where his achievements include spearheading a planned 200,000-square-foot expansion featuring a new building for modern and contemporary art designed by wHY Architecture. The “new Speed,” which will include a new art park and piazza for outdoor sculpture, is slated to open in 2015 (meanwhile, 95% of the $50 million tab has already been raised). At the IMA, the venerable Venable will succeed Maxwell Anderson, who became director of the Dallas Museum of Art in January.

• Want to explore masterpieces from the Getty without looking up from your digital device? There’s an app for that. The new J. Paul Getty Museum Highlights of the Collections app (yours for $2.99) allows you to browse through 150 of the museum’s greatest hits, from Van Gogh’s “Irises” (your aunt loves this one so much she bought the tote bag) and Bernini’s sculpture of a “Boy with a Dragon” to Dorothea Lange’s migrant mother and a recently acquired Klimt drawing (happy 150th, Gustav!). Each of the objects is accompanied by a brief commentary and can be viewed in detail through high-definition images.

• Back in Gotham, the Metropolitan Museum of Art is celebrating a new attendance record: 6.28 million people visited the Met (including the Cloisters museum and gardens) during the fiscal year that ended on June 30—662,000 of those visitors stopped by last summer’s Alexander McQueen blockbuster, which also boosted the 2011 attendance numbers because of its timing. Virtual visitors are also on the rise, with the museum reporting 44 million to its website in fiscal year 2012.
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Quote of Note | Taryn Simon

Excerpt from Chapter XV of Taryn Simon’s “A Living Man Declared Dead and Other Chapters I–XVIII” (2012), on view through September 3 at New York’s Museum of Modern Art.

“Well, in my latest work ‘A Living Man Declared Dead and Other Chapters I–XVIII,’ I’ve tried to do that, in a way: to articulate certain systems, patterns, and codes through design and narrative. I traveled around the world researching and recording eighteen bloodlines and their related stories. There are several empty portraits representing living members of a bloodline who could not be photographed for reasons including dengue fever, imprisonment, army service, and religious and cultural restrictions on gender. Some just refused because they didn’t want to be part of the narrative. The blanks establish a code of absence and presence. The stories themselves function as archetypal episodes from the past tht are occurring bow and will happen again. I was thinking about evolution and if we are in fact unfolding, or if we’re more like a skipping record—ghosts of the past and future.”

-Artist Taryn Simon, in a conversation with filmmaker Brian de Palma that appears in the summer issue of Artforum