It’s not yet spring, which means that it’s time to look ahead to what you (or at least someone you know) will be wearing and/or coveting come autumn (or at least mid-summer). That’s right, the New York fall collections are once again upon us. Today saw the official kick-off of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in the Bryant Park tents, which this year are a whirl of Stephen Sprouseworthy hot pink in celebration of Barbie‘s 50th anniversary (a squad of the doll’s designer-clad human doppelgangers take the runway tomorrow afternoon).

But what of this gloomy economic environment? IMG’s Fern Mallis sees opportunity. “This is a remarkable season where all eyes are looking at American designers, and new exciting talents are being recognized on an international stage, thanks in part to America’s new First Lady Michelle Obama,” writes Mallis in the MBFW program. “Let’s see how the most creative community in the world will respond to these times on the runways.” Among the most intriguing responses we’ve seen so far is that of Madrid-based designer Davidelfin, who today sent out a sharp and moody parade of androgynous mens and womens looks inspired by the work of Diane Arbus. Shimmering against a palette that the designer described as “black, white, grey, blood” was this pair of black sequined pants worn by a model named Gerhard. Stay tuned to UnBeige for more sartorial economic stimulus: we’ll be Twittering mini-reviews from the shows before settling down for some in-depth coverage and trendspotting next week.