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Archives: July 2012

Brandon Holley Calls Fashion Blogging ‘Most Exciting Thing to Happen in Publishing in Decades’

They say if you can’t beat ‘em join ‘em… or, do one better and let ‘em eat off your plate. That’s Lucky editor-in-chief Brandon Holley‘s approach to the Web.

In the second installment of our Media Beat interview, Holley, who once headed Yahoo! Shine, said she realized pretty early that the days of finding new readers “on the back of a CVS newsstand somewhere” are over.

“Fashion blogging, to me, is the most exciting thing that’s happened in publishing in decades. It’s really created a new tier of content, and you can either separate yourself from that content or you can bring it in,” she explained. “One way that we bring it in is we have a desk where bloggers can come in and sit — they’re called our Lucky Style Collective — they contribute content to the magazine; they contribute certainly online. So, it’s a sharing of pockets of audience.”

Part 1:Lucky EIC Brandon Holley on Getting a Magazine Job
Part 3: Lucky’s Brandon Holley Talks Photoshop and Fashion

Marc Newson Mega-Monograph Coming Soon (But Start Coveting It Now!)

From left, the collector’s edition and the limited art edition. (Photos courtesy Taschen)

We first heard rumblings of a Marc Newson book to end all Marc Newson books late last year, with word that publication was planned for spring. But by the time April showers brought May flowers, a megatome was nowhere to be found. We busied ourselves with a Pentax K-01 and hoped for the best, because there’s no rushing a 600-page creative retrospective, particularly when it is being produced by Taschen in close collaboration with the Sydney-born designer himself. Reader, it won’t be long now.

Marc Newson will enter the world this September in two deluxe formats: a collector’s edition of 1,000 numbered and signed copies, each in a linen-covered slipcase, and [trumpet fanfare] an ultracovetable art edition of 100 copies. The latter features leather marquetry on the cover and comes tucked inside a slip case made of Micarta, a signature Newsonian composite whose rich brown tone deepens when exposed to ultraviolet light.
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Wes Gordon, Tabitha Simmons Among New Crop of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists

From left, looks from the fall 2012 collections of Wes Gordon, A.L.C., and Suno.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue have announced the new crop of finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund initiative. Now in its ninth year, the program provides financial support and business mentorship for emerging designers. Among the past winners are Joseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Sophie Theallet, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. The 2012 finalists are:
Andrea LiebermanA.L.C.
Greg ArmasAssembly New York
Sofia SizziGiulietta
Justin Salguero, Daniel Silberman, and Alina SilbermanIllesteva
Jennifer FisherJennifer Fisher Jewelry
Jennifer Meyer MaguireJennifer Meyer
Max Osterweis and Erin BeattySuno
Tabitha Simmons
Greg Chait The Elder Statesman
Wes Gordon

The finalists were selected by a committee of fashion power players that includes Vogue‘s Anna Wintour, whose tireless championing of the initiative has resulted in similar prizes across the globe, and CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg. Later this month, the group will meet with each of the finalists to review their current collections and conduct in-depth interviews (with $300,000 up for grabs, there’s no pressure) before embarking on site visits to their design studios (again, no pressure). A design project with Tiffany & Co. is in the works, and a Fashion Fund Finalists’ fashion show is planned for October is Los Angeles. The winner(s) will be announced in New York City on November 13.

Quote of Note | Nan Goldin

“I never really learned technology. In October of 1990, I got a Leica. All the other years I used cameras that I could buy hot in the bar where I used to be a bartender. In the early ‘70s, technology in the photo world was what Postmodernist theory is now. I have the same aversion to Postmodern theory as I did to technology. I don’t think either of them have anything to do with the creative process. I responded very strongly against the obsession with technology that was in the photo world in the early ‘70s. When we went to school, it was the rocking tree school where your photographs had absolutely no content, but you made perfect pictures and perfect prints. And photographers, particularly male, only discussed their cameras and equipment. My response was to not get involved with that at all. Actually, we used to call ourselves the scratch and dust school. Unfortunately, now that somebody is printing my early black-and-white work, it’s a bit of a problem because my negatives are so fucked-up. My students are still shocked by how little I know technically. They teach me a lot.”

-Nan Goldin, in an interview with Stephen Westfall that appeared in the fall 1991 issue of BOMB. On August 12, Goldin will be awarded the MacDowell Medal at a ceremony in Peterborough, New Hampshire.

Above: Self-portrait with Head Against Pillow, Eyes Right, Boston, 1989. © Nan Goldin.

Back in NYC, Project Runway Hits the High Line

In New York, one day you’re in and the next day you’re out. Then, many days later, you’re rediscovered by preservation-minded neighbors, photographed by Joel Sternfeld, saved from demolition, and reimagined by James Corner Field Operations with Diller Scofidio + Renfro. And, just like that, you’re back in again! The abandoned railway-turned-public park that is New York’s High Line becomes even more fashionable this week, thanks to a collaboration with Project Runway. With nine seasons, two networks, and one legal brouhaha under its shiny neon belt, the reality TV competition show returns on Thursday with 90-minute episodes filmed on location in New York (the opening challenge takes place in Times Square). Get a headstart on season ten by heading to the High Line, which is being temporarily transformed into a virtual runway: jumbo digital screens installed along a portion of the Chelsea Market passage will feature interactive digital images of Runway staples Heidi Klum, Tim Gunn, Michael Kors, and Nina Garcia, and fashion photographers, who according to Erika Harvey at Friends of the High Line, “will react in real time as park visitors strut their stuff while walking along the elevated park.” The “Make it Work Moments” installation opens this afternoon and runs through Thursday.
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Flashback: Jean-Paul Goude’s Bastille Day Parade

Jessye Norman sings the French national anthem in Paris on July 14, 1989.

Bastille Day comes but once a year, and what luck that in 2012 it’s on a samedi. After you’ve secured a giant box of macarons and tracked down an elusive DVD of Jean Renoir‘s 1938 flick La Marseillaise (sip your champagne every time the proto-anthem is sung!), join us for a brief trip in the international time machine that is YouTube. Click below to journey back to 1989, when Jean-Paul Goude was charged with creating a massive parade as part of the French Revolution bicentennial. As if that wasn’t pressure enough, then-president François Mitterrand was adamant that he didn’t want anything nostalgic for the commemorative megabash. Inspired by the dual themes of the rights of man and world music, Goude delivered an incredible production that sent down the the Champs Elysées thousands of musicians, cheeky global stereotypes (the British contingent toted umbrellas and was accompanied by a persistent downpour, while the Russians moved in a flurry of faux snow), and an American marching band that played James Brown‘s greatest hits—meanwhile, the Godfather of Soul himself RSVPed non from his own kind bastille (South Carolina’s State Park Correctional Institute). Get more Goude in So Far So Goude (Assouline), which includes the 30-minute DVD from which this clip was taken.

Ellsworth Kelly’s Flying Colors Land at Dartmouth

Photos: Martin Grant (top), Corinne Arndt Girouard (inset)

Visitors to the Dartmouth campus in Hanover, New Hampshire will no longer need to ask directions to the Hopkins Center for the Arts. They can simply scan the horizon for the rainbow that was added to the building’s eastern facade this week. The five aluminum rectangles—each measuring approximately 22 feet high and 5.5 feet wide—are the work of Ellsworth Kelly, who created “Dartmouth Panels” for the site and was present for its installation.

Dartmouth alum Leon Black (who earlier this year paid $120 million for Edvard Munch‘s “The Scream” at Sotheby’s) commissioned the wall sculpture, which will be dedicated on September 14 along with the new Black Family Visual Arts Center. Designed by Machado and Silvetti Associates, the 105,000-square-foot building will house the school’s departments of studio art, film and media studies, and the nascent digital humanities program. A plaza with a formal lawn and hardscape sculpture terrace will connect the new center with the Hopkins Center and the Hood Museum of Art. “We are actively pursuing extended loans of public sculpture, as well as commissions of significant new works for the dynamic space where the Black Family Visual Arts Center, the Hopkins Center for the Arts, and the Hood Museum of Art intersect,” said Michael Taylor, director of the Hood Museum, in a statement issued earlier this year.

In Brief: Valentino Sold, Sounds Like Staten Island, New Director for DIFFA, IDSA International

An installation view of “Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, Bivouac,” an exhibition on view through July 31 at the Centre Pompidou-Metz. (Courtesy Studio Bouroullec)

• Ciao, Doha! A luxury-loving bunch of Qatari investors (read: royals) have acquired Valentino from private equity player Permira, which has controlled the Italian fashion house since 2007. A statement issued today announcing the transaction did not disclose financial terms, but the price tag is believed to be around 700 euros ($856 million at current exchange). “Our vision is to back management for the long term to exploit the full potential of this exciting brand,” said a representative from the buyer, Mayhoola for Investments, in the press release. “We believe Valentino is ideally suited to form the basis for a global luxury goods powerhouse.”

• What does Staten Island sound like? Mermaids and the muffled sobs of Alexander Graham Bell, apparently. Hear for yourself beginning this weekend with the debut of “Telettrofono,” the fourth edition of the Guggenheim’s stillspotting nyc project. The new site-specific commission by sound artist Justin Bennett and poet Matthea Harvey takes the form of a 90-minute waterfront walking tour that will allow listeners to discover the true story of Antonio Meucci, the unacknowledged inventor of the first telephone (1871), and the hidden story of Meucci’s wife Esterre, who was rumored to be a mermaid who left the water for land due to her love for sound. (Look sharp for a young Tom Hanks.)

DIFFA: Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS has found a new executive director in Christopher Ryan More, who currently serves as the U.S. Fundraising Director for the International AIDS Society. More will replace David Sheppard, who is retiring on August 1 after 17 years as DIFFA’s executive director.
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New York Goes Dotty for Yayoi Kusama

Attendance won’t be spotty for the Yayoi Kusama retrospective, which opens today at the Whitney Museum following a Tuesday evening fete that abounded with polka dots, disembodied tentacles, and enough red mylar balloons to send the diminutive artist herself aloft (alas, she was not in attendance). “She might be a small woman, but she’s one hell of a powerful one,” said Whitney Museum director Adam Weinberg at a press preview for the exhibition, which was organized with Tate Modern and made previous stops in Madrid, Paris, and London. “This historic retrospective brings her back to the city where, as she said, ‘Kusama has become Kusama.’ Some of the most important developments in her life and work happened here.”

The Whitney installation, overseen by curator David Kiehl, unfolds chronologically over a series of rooms devoted to her distinct artistic phases, including early paintings, sculptural installations, and a group of collages from the 1970s that evoke the work of an undersea Joseph Cornell and Max Ernst on the moon. And don’t be put off by the line to spend a minute alone inside Kusama’s “Fireflies on the Water” (2002), a darkened dazzle chamber that is installed on the museum’s lobby level. While you wait, transform your favorite photos into constellations of dots or waves with the Louis Vuitton Kusama Studio app (a free iTunes download). The fashion house, a major sponsor of the Whitney exhibition, is further fueling Kusama-mania with a limited-edition range of accessories and apparel covered in the artist’s signature spots. But do avoid the pieces that mix red-and-white dots with black, lest you resemble another plucky octogenarian. “Reminds me of Minnie Mouse,” commented one shopper at the Louis Vuitton flagship on 57th Street, which earlier this week unveiled windows devoted to the work of Kusama.

(Photo at top courtesy Yayoi Kusama Studio, Ota Fine Arts, Victoria Miro Gallery, and Gagosian Gallery; inset photo courtesy Louis Vuitton)

Visionaire Goes to Rio, Dances on the Sand (in 3D!)

Visionaire 62 Rio photographed by Junichi Ito. Inset: Fyodor Pavlov-Andreevich’s “Snowpanema.”

It’s impossible to wade very far into today’s culture without encountering Brazil or 3-D glasses, and the fashion-meets-art wizards at Visionaire have united these two megatrends in the latest issue of their shape-shifting publication. Visionaire 62 Rio, produced in collaboration with real estate developer Iguatemi, takes the form of 18 3D images in which the likes of Maurizio Cattelan, Marco Brambilla, Marilyn Minter, and Richard Phillips intrepret Brazil’s second largest city. The art slides are packaged with a stereoscope (think souped-up yet streamlined ViewMaster) designed and engineered by New York-based aruliden and tucked inside a case paneled with lenticular screens that animate artworks by either Fernando and Humberto Campana or Beatriz Milhazes. If you’re ready to pop for one of the 2,000 issues ($375 each), Visionaire is now taking pre-orders here. Test drive before you buy by visiting Visionaire at 11 Mercer Street in New York or by watching the below video.
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