So What Do You Do, Fern Mallis, Senior Vice President IMG Fashion?
A Brooklyn gal-turned-fashion star discusses going from the garment district to the CDFA and beyond
February 6, 2008
Backstabbing and bitchiness are the stock and trade of the characters that populate fashionista favorites Project Runway and Ugly Betty, but to hear Fern Mallis tell it, real life doesn't imitate television. When reality show producers declared her "too nice" for her own series last year, IMG's senior vice president of fashion saw it as more of a validation than a rejection. "In the conversations it just became obvious I just wasn't bitchy enough, which I thought was an okay thing," she says.In her decades long career in fashion, Mallis has become one of its most tireless and visible champions. In 1993, as the executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she organized the industry's first "Fashion Week" -- then called 7th on Sixth -- and took on the unenviable task of getting notoriously prickly designers to play nice and produce their runway shows in one central location. Today, she presides over Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York twice a year when the industry's biggest names pitch their tents in Bryant Park with her characteristic good-natured calm while making sure the hissy fits are kept to a minimum and Jessica, Demi, and Beyoncé get to their front row seats without too much hassle from the paparazzi. Mallis has also proven there's plenty of substance behind all that style. According to industry sources, the event generates over $235 million for the city each season. Perhaps that's why Mallis is logging plenty of frequent flyer miles traveling as far as India to help foreign fashionistas stage their own headline-grabbing shows. For the Brooklyn-born girl who graduated from James Madison High School having won both the "fashion design" award and kudos from her classmates as "best dressed," it's a dream come true. "I still get goose bumps when the lights go down, the music starts and those first shows start," says Mallis. "It's thrilling."
Name: Fern Mallis Position: Senior vice president, IMG Fashion Resume: Before assuming her current position when IMG acquired 7th on Sixth in 2001, served as executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America for 10 years; served as a consultant for the fashion and interior design industries and worked as vice president of marketing and communications for the International Design Center, New York (IDCNY); principal of Fern Mallis Public Relations; began her career in fashion after winning Mademoiselle's "Guest editor" competition; spent several years as a merchandising editor for the magazine Birthdate: March 26 Hometown: Brooklyn, New York Education: University of Buffalo, BFA Marital status: Single First section of The Sunday Times: "I have to admit I read the Style section first." Favorite television show: "I watch Project Runway and I've been watching Cashmere Mafia. I think it's amusing. It will be interesting to see how Lipstick Jungle shapes up. I love Boston Legal. I was a Grey's Anatomy fan -- a little less so now. Most of this is on DVR and watched at one o'clock in the morning. I tape Oprah. I check what the subject matter is and if it's interesting, I watch it later when I'm up at night and can't sleep." Guilty pleasure: "Eating" Last book read: The Other Boleyn Girl by Philippa Gregory How did Fashion Week in its current incarnation come about? The short version is it was an accident. There was a ceiling crash in 1991 at Michael Kors in a loft downtown in the kind of raw, rough space designers love to do fashion shows in. Once the music started playing, pieces of the ceiling plaster started to fall down on the runway hitting the shoulders of the super models -- Linda, Naomi, Cindy. They just kind of brushed off their shoulders and kept walking but then plaster landed in Suzy Menkes' and Carrie Donovan's lap. They didn't take kindly to that. The next day's headlines pretty much read ,"We live for fashion; we don't want to die for it." It took the American fashion industry to task for all the unsafe spaces designers would show in. I had just been hired and hadn't started yet as executive director of the CFDA. At that moment I said, "I think my job description just changed." If there were 50 shows, there were 50 locations and very few people spoke to each other about you being uptown and I'm downtown. The mantra was "Organize, centralize, modernize" the runway shows. The first shows were organized in 1993 at the Tents in Bryant Park. In 1992, we were asked by CFDA to come up with an idea for the Democratic National Convention. We got a group together and put on a fashion show. We put up this big tent in Central Park for 1200 delegates and guests. Every single designer was there -- Calvin, Donna, Oscar, Diane, Isaac, and Tom. Everybody you could possibly think of participated. At the end they all walked down the runway with their models. They all looked at me like, "So this is what you're talking about?" It was the reality of seeing it that really cemented the concept. I went to Paris and Milan the following season to see everything and came back with a full report. The next season, we made our deal with Bryant Park. It just kept growing and has just evolved into this massive company. Nobody ever thought 10 designers would ever work together in the same place. Then we began registering media from around the world. We now have 4,000 registered outlets that come to cover fashion week.
Any idea how many shows you've been to since taking this job?
For you, prepping for Fashion Week must be like getting ready to run a marathon. What do you do to prepare?
Is that the major difference in your job -- its international scope -- since Seventh on Sixth was acquired by IGM? Fashion Week can certainly be credited with making fashion a much bigger part of the pop culture landscape. What has that meant in the big picture sense for the industry? It's meant better business for them. The convergence of fashion and celebrity over the last 10 years has just been phenomenal. I credit Joan Rivers with a lot of that. She was the first person who covered the red carpet and asked people what they were wearing. Before that you had to guess. That was not the primary conversation -- nobody would dare ask, "Are those your diamonds? Whose shoes are those?" She changed that dialogue forever. I think that has put fashion squarely at the center of pop culture. You can't look at a red carpet event without having 20 or 30 designers names associated with it and that's been great for the industry.
This year's Oscars -- if it comes off -- will have a pretty high glamour quotient. What would it mean to the fashion industry if there's no red carpet this year?
I once got trampled by a photographer – he literally held me down on the ground under his boot -- when Beyoncé showed up at an Oscar de la Renta show. The melee made the papers because Suzy Menkes, who always seems to be in harm's way, got caught in the fray. The presence of celebrities at shows seems to be a double-edged sword. What's your take on having them at the shows? When celebrities are there, sometimes the press is favorable and sometimes it's not. If there are too many celebrities, the press will say, "This is ridiculous." The next season, there's no celebrities and you get beat up the shows are lackluster because there's no stars. It's an absolutely a no-win situation.
Which celebrities have caused the greatest uproar by their presence at a show?
There were a lot of rumors flying around that the company paid all those stars to sit in that front row. What do you think of that practice? Are you aware of that happening a lot?
Celebrities have long replaced models on the covers of fashion magazines. Do you see that practice continuing?
On the runway that's certainly true, but on magazine covers it seems like celebrities rule. Someone once said to me now if you see a magazine cover with a face on it you don't recognize it seems rather jarring.
Maybe this is too strong a word, but do you think there is any resentment on the part of designers for having to play the celebrity game? There's really no way around it these days, is there?
Are there celebrities that you wish would just go away. Has anyone been banned from the tents?
Editors! Come on Fern, name names!
I've stood in the back on the bleachers at shows and thought, if there's an emergency of any kind, I'm toast. I think that the neighbor of the cousin of the dry cleaner has no business being there. It's really annoying to people who have to be there and are thrown together with these hangers on.
There's always some front row drama. Last season it was Marc Jacobs feuding with everyone in that explosive WWD interview after people complained about the very late starting time for his show. Any predictions about this season? Shows like Project Runway, which you've been on, hype the bitchiness factor of the industry. Is that a good thing or a bad thing? I just think it's television. When I did my first appearance two seasons ago, the finalists came to our offices and the advice I gave to them was to be nice. I can't tell you how much feedback I got from that. People said, "Thank you for saying that you don't have to be a bitch to succeed in fashion."
Did you always want to be in fashion and know you'd wind up there?
And you were voted best dressed in your high school class. What's in your closet these days?
You started your fashion career at Mademoiselle as a winner of their guest editor competition. Any lessons you learned there that still resonate today?
That's an interesting point you made about in today's climate there would be camera tracking a guest editor a la Miss Seventeen on MTV. Have you ever been approached to do a reality show?
What are the qualities one needs to succeed in fashion today?
Is it harder to break into the business now than it was say even five years ago?
How has the Internet affected the business?
So many of these renegade fashion sites get more hits -- certainly a lot more buzz -- than the more established sites. They're often not very informed about the business and have very little context. I think it's harmful to credible fashion journalism.
What do you consider your greatest accomplishment?
What about your biggest disappointment?
How would you say you've gotten to where you are? Do you have a motto? One of the lines I quote a lot especially during fashion week is something my dad always said when we were growing up and it's so true -- "No two people should ever have to worry about the same thing." That is very good motto to get through work -- if someone else is worrying about something, you don't have to. And also -- "A good idea with a stupid person is not as powerful as a bad idea with a smart person." Diane Clehane is a contributing editor to FishbowlNY and TVNewser. She writes the Lunch at Michael's column. Photo courtesy of Timothy Greenfield Sanders. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
|
||
| > Have a comment? Send a letter to the editor. > Read more in our archives |
Backstabbing and bitchiness are the stock and trade of the characters that populate fashionista favorites Project Runway and Ugly Betty, but to hear Fern Mallis tell it, real life doesn't imitate television. When reality show producers declared her "too nice" for her own series last year, IMG's senior vice president of fashion saw it as more of a validation than a rejection. "In the conversations it just became obvious I just wasn't bitchy enough, which I thought was an okay thing," she says.




