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Red Medicine Chef Revisits LA Times Restaurant Critic Flap

Jordan Kahn (pictured), co-owner and chef at the Beverly Hills restaurant that famously outed and expelled LA Times critic S. Irene Virbila, does not mince words. In part 2 of an interview with LA Weekly, he calls out the snarky commenters on Eater LA and suggests that his approach to restaurant food is something that was perhaps destined to never please Virbila:

“I can’t speak for her because I don’t actually know her, although I’d love to meet her one day. But when you read a lot of her reviews, you tend to see a trend of what she likes and what she doesn’t. There’s a part of me that thinks she’s gonna think that there’s too much fuss, we’ve put in too much work.

She reviewed Providence and she wrote that some of the dishes were too fussy. I read that and I said, ‘Does that mean they put in too much time? That’s considered a detriment now, I suppose. You’re spending too much time making this perfect. You need to slop it out. But not too sloppy because I’ll call you sloppy. You need to find the balance that I like.’”

Kahn also candidly recalls the devastation he felt after reading Virbila’s negative review of his previous restaurant XIV, five months into that enterprise.

Previously on FishbowlLA:
LA Times Food Critic Decries Vietnam Ambush

[Photo: Andrew Froug]

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